By plane from Frankfurt to Santiago and then directly to Ponferrada in beautiful weather.
Stage 1: Ponferrada – Las Medulas – Orellán (33.3 km)
After pure sunshine on the day of arrival, the first day of the run began with rain. That’s why you have the right clothes and off we went. First look for the junction to the Camino Invierno and then out of the city. The rain then also became less.
The scenery was very pleasant and the energy was there too. So I walked through the countryside alone, taking the original route and not the shortcuts. At some point I saw the Castillo de Cornatel high up on the mountain. What I didn’t think about was that I would climb the mountain and then stand in front of it. Somehow I thought I was walking around the mountain. But of course you’re proud when you get to the top and see the Castillo in front of you.
From there I headed back down into the valley and wanted to replenish my water supplies before the ascent to Las Medulas. There were no stores to be found and the only hotel was closed. So the last remaining 0.5 bottle was filled up at the fountain. That was the minimum, because it got warm, but sometimes rainy and therefore a sauna under the poncho and about 8 kilometers uphill. It should be noted here that the great viewpoint (picture in stage 2 report) of the red rocks of Las Medulas is not on the route, but is the Mirador de Orellán.
Stage 2: Orellán – Las Medulas – O Barco de Valdeorras (36 km)
I set off early in the morning in fine weather and I have to admit that I made a mistake with the viewpoint and the kilometers. So the day was accordingly exhausting. As on the previous day, I was completely alone on the trail and the weather turned into a miracle. The view at the Mirador de Orellán was absolutely worth it and I was also lucky that the weather was good at the time.
I then went downhill via Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Flórez, where I took a break at lunchtime. The landscape is truly impressive and the beauty of the Camino Invierno is evident time and time again. I continued on to Rubia, where I took a break due to the weather. While I was still full of energy and motivation in the morning, I have to say that in O Barco I was just longing for my accommodation and was glad when I could finally fall into bed.
After two days, almost 70 kilometers, that was just too much, but we had a short stage ahead of us.
Stage 3: O Barco de Valdeorras – A Rua de Valdeorras (15 km)
Nice weather and a short stage. Ideal for taking a breather. I thought so, but somehow the kilometers drag on more when you have in mind that you only have 15 kilometers ahead of you. I also didn’t start until midday, which was also unusual. But of course I managed the stage well in very changeable conditions. There was everything from sunshine to rain to storms.
There were again some beautiful scenic passages. But my mood was pretty low. The first two exhausting stages, the loneliness on the route and slight health problems.
Somehow it wasn’t my path yet and I thought about breaking off the Camino Invierno and switching to the Portugues instead, for example. These thoughts accompanied me for a few days despite the fantastic landscape. I knew from the previous Caminos that it pushes you when you walk in company and sometimes have a chat. All I had left were the thoughts that accompanied me throughout the day and the kilometers I had to cover to reach the finish line.
The thought of dropping out really did come up a few times, but there was still the pride that wouldn’t allow it and the hope that I would get there on the way.
Stage 4 A Rua de Valdeorras – Quiroga (30.5 km)
From A Rua, there was a very, very long passage up the mountain along a country road. Fortunately, there was hardly any traffic on the road, which made walking more pleasant. In a small village there was a really lovely refreshment stop. From there, things went downhill again. The weather was overcast, but less rainy than in the days before. The landscape was again very beautiful with mountains, the river and then some small but beautiful villages with lovely old houses. But the stage also really got to me towards the end and I remembered the words of a Portuguese man on my first Camino: “It is always more, never less.”
Just when you think you’ve made it because you’ve reached the official number of kilometers, there’s still a long way to go to make sure you’ve completed the stage. At the end of the stage, when I was really knocked out and realized I had to run a bit more, a shepherd dog came along at a ruined castle, looked at me and ran ahead of me for about 2.5 kilometers. It was probably meant to be and his presence pulled me and gave me new strength. But that evening in Quiroga, I was just physically and emotionally miserable and I was glad when I fell asleep.
Stage 5 Quiroga – A Pobra de Bollón (25.5 km)
On the morning of my 5th stage, the sun was waiting for me and my mood and well-being suddenly improved. It was such a pleasure to start running again. And that after an evening to forget.
I had also canceled my original plan to run the Invierno “fast” and then run from Santiago to Finisterre and Muxia and had reorganized the stages of the Invierno with more balanced stages and I was happy with that.
There were a few climbs on the stage to A Pobra de Bollón, but thanks to my good mood and fresh energy, I didn’t mind them, nor the loneliness that naturally accompanied me that day. For me, it was the day I arrived on my Camino and so it was simply beautiful.
Everything immediately felt nicer, more relaxed and more pleasant. Probably also because I had taken the shackles of the long stages off myself and simply said from then on: I’ll get there, but I’m not going to break myself. My inner attitude immediately changed and on this stage I began to notice the little things along the way more. I had accepted the loneliness and walked through the landscape with a smile on my face, taking leisurely breaks and allowing myself to enjoy what awaited me: beautiful, lonely landscapes.
In A Pobra de Bollón, I treated myself to a coffee and an orange juice and sat in the sun before making my way to the hostel. In the evening, two Polish ladies checked in, with whom I had a little chat and who crossed my path from time to time for a short time.
Stage 6 A Pobra de Bollón – Monforte de Lemos (18.5 km)
In a good mood, I set off in the morning on a fairly short stage that couldn’t keep up with the others in terms of scenery, but was relaxed and enjoyable. Instead, a beautiful town (Monforte de Lemos) awaited me at lunchtime with a beautiful castle and a small and charming old town that invited me to linger.
And in keeping with the improving mood, the sun came out in the early afternoon and I was able to enjoy the sun’s rays over a good meal before moving into my accommodation later. I used the free time to take a closer look at the city and buy food for the day ahead.
Stage 7 Monforte de Lemos – Chantada (33 km)
After a quiet night, the stage I had the most respect for followed. A long uphill, then a steep downhill and then uphill again, and the whole thing over 30 kilometers. But then again, it was the head that played a trick on you or not. I was allowed to do without the prank and had a tough but beautiful stage ahead of me. OK, the first section in the rain really wasn’t up for a beauty award, but after that it was very nice.
The path uphill wasn’t too hard either, but steady and not too steep. And the nice thing about being at the top is of course the view, which you can enjoy to some extent. And I did that and took enough breaks to regain my strength. On the way there is also a viewpoint, the Mirador Cabo do Mundo, where you can see the loop of the River Mino. Unfortunately, it was a bit rainy at the time, but the 800 meter detour was worth it.
Later on, the descent was really steep on old Roman stone roads and you have to be very careful not to slip. But as soon as you see the valley with the River Mino, you forget everything because of the beauty of the landscape. An absolute dream. Once we reached the bottom and passed the Mino over a bridge, it was time for a break before the climb to Chantada. This was another challenge, as old Roman stone roads also formed the Camino here and it was very strenuous in the sunshine, but beautiful.
Stage 8 Chantada – Rodeiro (25.5 km)
What should come after this stage with the profile? Of course, the highest point of the Camino Invierno at 1,153 meters. But I was in good spirits and didn’t mind. And so I set off and didn’t mind when it started to rain lightly at some point and luck was on my side and there was a café in the last village before the climb that was also open, so I was able to spend an hour there in more rain and only then set off.
The landscape was not so beautiful and the highest point was paved with wind turbines, which in the light rain under the poncho made the sound of airplanes on a runway. But hey, I was still in a good mood and happily ran down the mountain.
Later, there were passages that were enjoyable again and in Rodeiro the sun was shining again, so my mood was naturally good and I was able to enjoy life on the Camino on a terrace in the afternoon.
Stage 9 Rodeiro – Lalin (26 km)
What do you do once you have the challenging passages behind you? Of course, we are looking forward to the next stages towards Santiago de Compostela. And that’s what I did from Rodeiro onwards. I took breaks, enjoyed the run and the view of nature made me smile.
My path had really been “my” path for a few days and the loneliness that had been my almost constant companion no longer bothered me at all, but instead made my thoughts spin and any physical complaints were a thing of the past.
And so I was able to enjoy the route and enjoy the landscape. At the end of the stage I arrived in Lalin and it was almost a culture shock
There was a festival in Lalin that day and lots of people were on the street, a band was playing, a fair was taking place and the peace and quiet of the last few days was suddenly a thing of the past. But I was able to accept that too and made myself comfortable in a square, drank Estrella Galicia and enjoyed the live music. But it wasn’t just the festival that was very nice, the city was also really beautiful.
A little tip for anyone stopping in Lalin or passing through Lalin: There is the “Punto de Informacion Al Peregrino”, where a friendly gentleman gives out great stamps in the pilgrims’ passports and you can also have a good chat with him.
Stage 10 Lalin – Silleda (15 km)
What a relaxed stage, with good weather, pleasant landscapes, beautiful bridges and plenty of peace and quiet. 15 kilometers are really pleasant to walk on a Camino, especially if it is not so mountainous. And it was just such a stage from Lalin to Silleda, so when I arrived in Silleda I had plenty of time for cafés, washing clothes and a leisurely dinner. On this section, I particularly liked the bridges along the way.
Stage 11 Silleda – Lestedo (29.5 km)
Even if it sounds like a very long stage, this stage was pleasant to run. You pass through some forests and I had deliberately chosen Lestedo as my destination because I wanted to treat myself to a special place to stay the evening before Santiago. It was also a little closer to Santiago.
From Silleda, the route is slightly downhill most of the time, crossing forests and fields, but also occasionally following a road. Much as you know it from Galicia, if you have already walked other Ways of St. James. But here too, as with most stages on the Invierno, you should stock up on provisions, as supermarkets and cafés are in short supply along the way.
The Invierno is rather uncrowded with around 2000 pilgrims per year. Accordingly, the infrastructure is not the same as on other routes. You should bear this in mind beforehand and, as you can see from my report, it can also happen that you are very much on your own. However, this does not detract from the beauty that this route offers.
In any case, the almost 30 kilometers between Silleda and Lestedo also contained everything that I always find fascinating when walking the last few kilometers towards Santiago. Eucalyptus forests, fields, forest paths, small streams and constant variety. And at the end of the day I was allowed to stay in a really nice accommodation with a very good dinner.
Stage 12 Lestedo – Santiago (14.5 km)
Final spurt to Santiago. The anticipation must have interrupted my night and so I set off in the dark to cover the last few kilometers to Santiago. On the way, I met the two ladies from Poland again and we walked a few kilometers together. A few kilometers before Santiago, the sky was still overcast and you would have thought that the finish would be rainy. But the closer I got to Santiago, the more it cleared up and in Santiago at the cathedral I was once again overcome with all the emotions you can have. Whatever it is, it is unique to me and linked to this place.
I enjoyed sitting in the square, watching the arriving pilgrims and making small talk here and there. At some point I picked up my Compostela, completely relaxed, and sat back down on the square. It is pure joy to see all the people arriving there and to read their faces.
The day after my arrival I had planned to attend the church service and so I did and had the pleasure of being able to see the Botafumeiro and experience how the scent then takes over the cathedral.
After two days in Santiago, I took the bus to Muxia and hiked from there first to Lires and then to Finisterre.
CONCLUSION
And once again I realized that this would not be my last Camino, even though the Invierno really sapped my energy with the chosen stages, the solitude and the lack of refreshment stops. The landscape is a dream.
Olaf Werheim, 2023
